In March 2006 Eve and I returned yet again to MV Atoll Explorer, this time with our good friends Graeme “Spotty” Hastings and his partner Dee Smith. You may wonder how Spotty acquired his nickname - the answer can be found on this website in my February 2003 trip report for americas/cocos island/sea hunter.

Upon boarding MV Atoll Explorer, Spotty was advised by Mohamed Saeed and Jacky that he would need to pass a fitness assessment before being allowed to dive. Despite correctly guessing that this was a practical joke initiated by me, Spotty gamely trod water for a while and was pronounced suitably fit for which he was subsequently presented with a certificate by Captain Fulhu. See Spotty passes fitness test and Spotty is certified photos.

The South Male Atoll/Fotteyo route of our previous two MV Atoll Explorer holidays had been replaced with a new itinerary that travelled south from Male to Maadhoo in South Male Atoll and then west to South Ari Atoll. As a consequence, on our first days diving we enjoyed dives at Kuda Giri and Cocoa Corner in South Male Atoll before Saeed led Graeme and I on a sunset dive at Lhos Fushi Canyon. There we saw a large Napoleon Wrasse, six or seven Whitetip Reef Sharks and a two metre long Nurse Shark sheltering inside a cave.

The following day we sailed to South Ari Atoll and dived Kuda Faru and Theyohandi Thilas and the next day Bulhaalohi Thila and Eboodhoo Reef. The following morning saw us at Manta Reef (Madivaru) for what proved to be my most spectacular Manta dive todate. The reefs there act like a funnel forcing the water at accelerated speed both in and out of the Atoll and during the north-east monsoon Manta Rays gather to feed on the plankton-rich waters. I saw many Manta Rays in exceptionally clear visibility and these passed close enough for us to touch should we have been so inclined. Afterwards our dhoani, Vidhuvaru, went in search of Whale Sharks. Two weeks later three Whale Sharks were seen but we were not so lucky. Abandoning the hunt for the day we dived Maamigli (Outside) and this being Dee’s 100th dive, Spotty and Saeed covered Dee in flour and eggs afterwards! See Dees flour attack photos.

We enjoyed four dives the next day commencing at Kudarah Thila where we saw Whitetip Reef Sharks, Dogtooth Tuna and some large Jacks, then we dived Dhigurah Thila before another fruitless search on Vidhuvaru for Whale Sharks although we did see two Manta Rays. So perhaps it was not so surprising that when Spotty and I descended from the surface at Maamigli (Outside) for our third dive of the day, we immediately saw a Manta Ray and later either the same or a different Manta. The final dive of the day was at Dhigurah Arches.

Afterwards there was barely time to change for the Captain’s Dinner where Captain Fulhu presented Spotty with his Fit Diver certificate. Following the dinner, Spotty together with several divers who had received more conventional diving certificates, were forced to celebrate by drinking beer through a funnel connected to a snorkel. See Spottys snorkel challenge photos. Then Spotty and Jacky were thrown off the back of MV Atoll Explorer into the sea. Before I knew what was happening I joined them. See Spotty & Jacky overboard, Spotty&MN overboard, Wet & back aboard and Soaked Malcolm & kit photos.

The next day we had an early morning dive at Dhigurah Arches before sailing back to Male. While MV Atoll Explorer spent the next 48 hours moored off the island of Kurumba near Male, Mohamed "Sindi" Seeneen from Kurumba’s EuroDivers dive centre organised some dives for us (see asia/maldives/kurumba on this website) and Saeed took us to Furana North where we saw several Whitetip Reef Sharks. Then it was time for MV Atoll Explorer to up anchor and commence the route known as the “First Week Itinerary” even though it was our second week. We initially sailed south-west to Laguna Beach which is located at one of the most northerly points of South Male Atoll. The latest arrivals carried out check-out dives while Spotty and I took photos in the lagoon of Laguna Beach and we then did two dives at Velassaru Caves.

The following morning we sailed north-west to Rasdhoo Atoll where we dived Rasdhoo Reef. Afterwards I enjoyed a private dive with Saeed on the wreck of Reef Explorer which lay close to MV Atoll Explorer’s mooring. I penetrated the wreck and in the darkness came across an enormous Grouper and a Giant Moray Eel. In the afternoon I dived Madivaru and saw a pair of Maplin Puffers and four Whitetip Reef Sharks and after this enjoyed a superb night dive at Fun Reef.

At 06.22 the next day I was back in the water at Hammerhead Point on the Madivaru dive site. Occasionally in the past I have seen Hammerhead Sharks on this site but this time was not so lucky. After breakfast we explored another part of this site before MV Atoll Explorer was on the move to North Ari Atoll. My third dive of the day was at Hafzaa Thila with Spotty as my buddy. This was a very exciting dive due to combination of a strong current and the depth of the thila and consequently we had to be particularly attentive to all safety issues. The fourth dive of the day, a night dive at the famous Maaya Thila site was even better. As our group dropped from the surface of the sea, other divers arrived on this small site. Soon there was a bewildering mix of divers of all abilities, excited White Reef Sharks, the bright lights of video cameras and the regular flash of camera strobes, all in an ever increasing current. I thought that Saeed did a remarkable job of keeping our group together in difficult circumstances.
 
The next morning we returned to the same site for an early morning dive. In the past on such occasions I have seen Grey Reef sharks. Indeed once I saw a Guitar Shark as well.  Possibly the site has become overdived but in any event this time I only saw Whitetip Reef Sharks. But the next two dives at Mushimasmigli (Fish Head) were excellent, both with close encounters with a friendly Napoleon Wrasse and Hawksbill Turtles.

The next day we dived Hathaaboahau, Rahmas and Muda Handi Thilas and Dhiggiri Reef all of which are in South Ari Atoll. The Rahmas Thila dive was my 200th Atoll Explorer dive and Captain Fulhu kindly arranged for a cake to be made to mark the occasion. See Celebrating 200 AE Dives photos. And Spotty and I wore silly masks while Saeed smashed eggs over on my head during the dive! At the Captain’s Dinner afterwards Eve received a certificate from Captain Fulhu for completing 400 dives. See Eve's certified photo. Our final dive of the holiday, an early morning dive, took us back to Mushimasmigli (Fish Head) for another excellent dive with the resident friendly Napoleon Wrasse and Hawksbill Turtles.

All too soon MV Atoll Explorer collected us to return us to Male. Another wonderful holiday was all but over.