In September 2001 Eve and I spent one week at the Mövenpick Resort, close to the town of Quseir. The Mövenpick's own bay, El Quadim Bay, is a small nature reserve protected by various ecological measures implemented by the Mövenpick and the local Subex Dive Centre. The Subex Dive Centre immediately impressed me. I was given a 45-minute orientation briefing of the centre which including showing me where everything is stored and advising what is expected of every diver. After that I had a checkout dive with Subex Instructor Martin Niedermann during which I was required to demonstrate buoyancy control, removal and retrieval of my mask and an appropriate reaction to an out-of-air situation. As I did this satisfactorily I was then considered an "Independent Diver" which entitled me to dive locally without a guide, provided that I adhered to certain restrictions. Rough sea conditions precluded any boat dives and occasionally the underwater visibility was poor. However the freedom to dive around El Quadim Bay every morning as "Independent Divers", a jeep safari to nearby dive sites every afternoon and the occasional night dive provided more than enough variety to keep us happy. Eduard Gombert became my regular holiday dive buddy whenever Eve did not want to dive and Subex Dive Instructors Sasa Jankovic, Martin Niedermann, Norbert Ottensmeier, Ali Abu El Magd and Ali el Nemr were very enthusiastic and helpful to us. A highlight of this holiday was watching a leopard moray attacking a juvenile giant moray eel. The two locked in combat with the larger leopard moray in control. Eventually it won and began to devour its victim. Our final dive of this holiday was Eve's 100th dive.